Argentina
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63 imagesThe "Green Corridor of the Province of Misiones." covers an area of 1.108,000 hectares of Parana forest, a mosaic of landscapes including protected areas, largely covered by subtropical forest. Misiones is also the site of the 275 waterfalls of Iguazú, scattered along 2.7 kilometers of the Iguazu River, declared UNESCO World Heritage Site and this is also the place of the Guarani Aquifer, the second largest known underground aquifer system in the world and is an important source of fresh water covering 1,200,000 square kilometres (460,000 sq mi), with a volume of about 40,000 cubic kilometres (9,600 cu mi). It is said that this vast underground reservoir could supply fresh drinking water to the world for 200 years. Due to an expected shortage of fresh water on a global scale this important natural resource is rapidly becoming politicised and the control of the resource becomes ever more controversial. But this wilderness is also the theatrical backstage of a fascinating history starting with the Guaranì, one of the most important peoples of South America. For this people the land is the origin of all life but invasions by ranchers have devastated their territory and nearly all of their land has been stolen or burned. The white culture surrounds the almost 90 Mbya Guarani communities of Misiones and they must protect themselves from alcohol, drugs and TV. The Guaranì are best known for their connection to the Jesuit missions, the “land without evil” for many Guaranì and a controversial chapter of the history, described as jungle utopias or as theocratic regime. The first mission of Loreto was established in 1610 and in 1732, the year of their greatest prosperity, in the reducciones, as the mission were called, lived 150,000 Guaraní. The missions were grouped about a great central square, with a church of stone, elaborate sculptures and richly adorned altars. But the economic success combined with the Jesuits independence became a cause of fear and when the Jesuits were expelled from the Spanish colonies in 1767, the reductions slowly died out. All that remains today are ruins of some of the Reductions. The Guaraní are reputed also to be the first people who cultivated the matè plant, Argentina´s national drink, and the Jesuit missionaries the first Europeans to do this. Yerba maté thrives on fertile soil and a subtropical climate of Misiones, with the leaves collected from the trees, roasted briefly over direct fire and dried. Finally, the leaves are mixed to obtain exactly the right blend.
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63 imagesAn empty land interrupted only by barbed wire that borders the estancias, the endless farms scattered over 900,000 square kilometers, two thousand kilometers from north to south, from the Colorado River to Cape Horn, and their flocks of sheep in thousands of animals, 17 million in Argentina alone, the seventh "sheep power" in the world. "Even if we go deep, Patagonia will always be there," say the Argentines of this mineral-rich land, from silver to uranium, not to mention natural gas, oil, and fertile land. It covers two-thirds of the country's surface area. However, it lives there less than two million people, 5% of the population. Still, today gauchos live isolated for months next to flocks, but often they move their herds on motorcycles rather than on horseback, but what does not change is the value of this land in a future in which the world will be increasingly polluted. Sheep farming introduced in the late 19th century has been a principal economic activity. After reaching its heights during the First World War, the decline in world wool prices affected sheep farming in Argentina. About half of Argentina's 15 million sheep are in Patagonia, a percentage growing as sheep farming disappears in the pampas to the north. Energy production is also a crucial part of the local economy. Railways were planned to cover continental Argentine Patagonia to serve the oil, mining, agricultural, and energy industries. In the second half of the 20th century, tourism became an ever more critical part of Patagonia's economy. A spin-off from increased tourism has been buying enormous tracts of land by foreigners, often as a prestige purchase rather than for agriculture, often VIPs and billionaires such as Sylvester Stallone, Ted Turner, or the Italian industrialists Benetton, the largest landowners in Patagonia. Today centuries of livestock activities, grazing, and trampling, have already caused severe erosion, and some forested national parks have failed to eliminate grazing. There has been pressure to create presumably sustainable forest-exploitation projects in Tierra del Fuego's Magellanic woodlands, and road-building in these areas has caused substantial damage. The contemporary economy of eastern Patagonia revolves around sheep farming and oil and gas extraction, turning Santa Cruz province into Argentina's energy safe. Away from tourist Patagonia, in the port of Puerto Deseado, fishing boats from all over the world unload impressive amounts of fish to export every day. A few dozen kilometers away from the Miradores de Darwin, an incredible fjord remained identical to the book's illustrations where Charles Darwin recounted his journey with brig Beagle, a famous exploration in which he spent considerable time investigating various areas of Patagonia onshore.
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63 imagesTHE SOUL OF TANGO A story about the real tango, that it's not the celebrated Tango-Export, as the porteños call the glamorous tango shows for tourists in Buenos Aires, or the couples of dancers in the streets of San Telmo or La Boca. The dance and music that would become the tango, declared in 2009 part of the World's Cultural Heritage by the United Nations, has been created by European immigrants, mainly Italian and Spanish, freed African slaves and gauchos in Buenos Aires around the 1880s. In dirty places where sometimes tango's deep soul still lives for aficionados, old cafès like Tango bar Lo de Roberto where dusty bottles and worn lyric sheets line the walls, where tango is not a dance, is poetry and songs played by traditional guitarists and tango singers. Or Bar del Chino in Pompeya, a popular district where tango was born, one of the wew still existing places in the world where tango is sung as it was 60 years ago. Here a group of remarkable veteran artists, unknown to the general public, express the real essence of tango, a particular way of seeing and enjoying life, without commercial tricks. Tango in Buenos Aires is a not only world of artists but also of skilled craftsmen especialised in making shoes and dresses exported in many countries, or Radio Ciudad FM 92.7, a radio broadcasting 24 hours every day about tango. Old-fashioned milongas like the Confiteria Ideal, a magic setting for films like The Tango Lesson and Evita that brings back to the beginning of last century, dances are held every day and every night. Since the beginning of the 1990s, the tango culture in Buenos Aires has undergone dynamic development, and today one can choose from between fifteen and thirty different milongas every day.
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71 imagesWill the Pachamama, the Mother Earth of the Andean indigenous peoples, resist Milei's chainsaw? Argentina's new president, declared his government will not have policies to fight the climate crisis, protect Indigenous people, or decrease deforestation. The "lithium triangle" of the northern province of Jujuy, the border area between Argentina, Bolivia, and Chile, contains the world's largest reserves of this metal, vital for the electronics and electric vehicle industries, and critical to the Milei government's development strategy. It could be a "catastrophe" for the Qolla indigenous communities trying to switch to renewable energies in the rugged landscapes of northwest Argentina. By the end of the 1980s in the Quebrada of Humahuaca and Puna, as a consequence of decades of destruction of the environment, the small woods, the only fuel available, disappeared, and with the high costs of conventional fuel and the unreliability of the electric grid this background of helplessness, small cooperatives started installing in many villages reflectors that move to track the movement of the Sun. Despite the growing difficulties, this environmentally friendly solar energy, called in the highlands the "Last Miracle of the Inti God," the Inca god of the Sun, could also be the propeller of a new search for the identity of these communities, long forgotten in Argentina. A real revolution in Jujuy, Argentina's poorest province, because the campesinos, the peasants, could preserve their products and wait for better prices without selling them to Salta traders. The Spanish conquistadores destroyed the Inca empire, but on these mountains the cultures are like geological layers; there is no melting pot between Qollas, Incas, and the European and Argentine immigrants arrived from the coast cities, just overlapping. Glued to this extreme north near the border with Bolivia, the Qolla resisted for centuries, and still today, they are mainly precarious farmers, llama breeders, and miners. Above all, they are one of Argentina's most important indigenous communities. Today, the Pachamama, the "Mother Earth" and fertility goddess of Inca mythology, is more and more revered by the indigenous people, and at Salinas Grandes, the third salt pan of the world, the salineros (salt workers) every year, still meet to toast to her honor. Not far, the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a narrow mountain valley, has been a social and cultural crossroad for 10,000 years. It was a caravan road for the Inca Empire in the 15th century and an essential link between Río de la Plata and Peru for the Spanish Empire. The Quebrada de Humahuaca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2003, has been rediscovered by tourists and mining companies. Even in Buenos Aires, many rediscovered Argentina’s indigenous roots hidden in this isolated plateau torn between the defense of a thousand-year-old identity and access to acrobatic jumps into the world of new technologies.