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Mexico - Tehuantepec, a matriarchy in the land of machos

63 images Created 13 Sep 2012

"Mi vestido soy yo," My Clothing, it's myself," used to say proudly Frida Kahlo. Frida's relationship with her body was complex. Her attire, inspired by the typical style of the Zapotec women of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, made Frida an object of veneration and gave her an identity. Through her ethnic dress, Frida identified with the Tehuanas, an archetype of pre-Columbian Mexico represented. The myth of Tehuanas arose in the mid-nineteenth century, powered by artists, adventurers, and speculators who traveled the Isthmus when it was one of the points of passage between the two oceans before the Panama Canal. All the chronicles of travels express a particular fascination for the Zapotecas women of the Mexican state of Oaxaca. When the Tehuanas dance the sones during their festivities, the Velas, floral skirts, and huipiles, the traditional embroidered shirts, transform the dance floor into a magical mobile garden. The showy trajes, the traditional dress, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them are, above all, an instrument of auto-representation for these active women who control the local markets, an independent economic power reflected in their self-confidence. Even in the festivities, the women dance more among themselves, with the men often seated and watching.
The anthem of Tehuantepec is La Zandunga played every noon also by the clock of the town hall of Tehuantepec, the sleepy unofficial capital of a matriarchy unique in Latin America. The Tehuanas do not need to show off their independence. When the band attacks the first Son Istmeño, a Song of the Isthm, hundreds of women dance to the slow melancholy of the music. The enormous skirts create the impression of a physical volume more imposing than the real, transforming their silhouette into a large cone that transmits an image of stability and firmness, and men appear thinner. The Vela goes on for days and nights, powered by unimaginable amounts of alcoholic beverages, and when the sun of a new day comes up start Byzantine diatribes on the dress to wear in the next Vela.

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  • Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Iguanas, especially in Juchitàn, ia a symbolic animal for religion, tradition and also a very popular food. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Iguanas, especially in Juchitàn, ia a symbolic animal for religion, tradition and also a very popular food. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Salina Cruz (Tehuantepec). Tehuanas, like gypsies women, put their fortune in heawy gold necklaces and pendants of old coins.The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Salina Cruz (Tehuantepec). Tehuanas, like gypsies women, put their fortune in heawy gold necklaces and pendants of old coins.
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  • Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Salina Cruz. Daughter of a "mayordoma" (autorithy of a Vela) in a chapel. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Salina Cruz. The "mayordoma" is the most important traditional autorithy of a Vela, and a very important people in a city life. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Salina Cruz. The "mayordoma" is the most important traditional autorithy of a Vela, and a very important people in the daily life.
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  • Salina Cruz, barrio" La Hormiga. Vela, with traditional dances ("sones") with skirts and huipiles. Many times the Tehuanas dances without men.
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  • Salina Cruz, barrio" La Hormiga. Vela, with traditional dances ("sones") with skirts and huipiles. Many times the Tehuanas dances without men.
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  • Salina Cruz, barrio" La Hormiga. Vela, with traditional dances ("sones") with skirts and huipiles. Many times the Tehuanas dances without men.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Vicente Ferrer. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Vicente Ferrer
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Vicente Ferrer. The entrance "ticket" for a Vela is a "cartòn", a case full with 20 beers. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Tehuantepec, election of a "Reina", the queen of a Vela. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Tehuantepec, Vela Sandunga. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Juchitàn: Vela (traditional celebration of Tehiana Indian Zapotec women) Biadxi, holy mass in Cheguigo chapel. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Isidro Labrador. Holy Mass in St Vicente Ferrer church.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Isidro Labrador. Holy Mass in St Vicente Ferrer church.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Isidro Labrador. Holy Mass in St Vicente Ferrer church.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Isidro Labrador. Holy Mass in St Vicente Ferrer church.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Isidro Labrador. Holy Mass in St Vicente Ferrer church.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Isidro Labrador. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Isidro Labrador. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214208.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebrations) of Ixtepec.  "Regada de Frutas", a procession along village's streets. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women who often control the local economy and markets with an independent economic power reflected in their self confidence. Even in the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebrations) of Ixtepec.  "Regada de Frutas", a procession along village's streets. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women who often control the local economy and markets with an independent economic power reflected in their self confidence. Even in the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214214.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebrations)  of Ixtepec. Tehuanas waiting for "regada de Frutas", a procession along village's streets. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214215.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebrations)  of Ixtepec. Tehuanas waiting for "regada de Frutas", a procession along village's streets. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214220.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebrations)  of Ixtepec. Tehuanas waiting for "regada de Frutas", a procession along village's streets. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214229.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebrations) of Ixtepec.  "Regada de Frutas", a procession along village's streets. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214230.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebrations) of Ixtepec.  "Regada de Frutas", a procession along village's streets. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214232.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebrations) of Ixtepec.  "Regada de Frutas", a procession along village's streets. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214237.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Vela Cheguigo. Tehuanas with traditional "Huipil Grande", often worn as hood. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representation for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214242.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Vela Cheguigo. Tehuanas with traditional "Huipil Grande", often worn as hood. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representation for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214245.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Vela Cheguigo. A man with "Huipil Grande" often worn as hood. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representation for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching..
    em0214246.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebration), a procession with many carriages. The tehuanas of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representation for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214250.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebration), a procession with many carriages. The tehuanas of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representation for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214251.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebration), a procession with many carriages. The tehuanas of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representation for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214254.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Vela de Ixtepèc, "Regada de Frutas", people waiting fruits from Tehuanas carriages. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representation for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • San Blas Atempa (Tehuantepec): tehuanas embroiding huipiles. This village is so-well known that buyers comes from foreign countries.
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  • San Blas Atempa (Tehuantepec): tehuanas embroiding huipiles. This village is so-well known that buyers comes from foreign countries.
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  • San Blas Atempa (Tehuantepec): tehuanas embroiding huipiles. This village is so-well known that buyers comes from foreign countries.
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  • San Blas Atempa (Tehuantepec): tehuanas embroiding huipiles. This village is so-well known that buyers comes from foreign countries. The Zapotecas women of the Istmo create with their extraordinary dresses a ?living? myth. When the tehuanas dance the sones during the festivities (Velas), floral skirts and huipiles (shirts) transform the track in a sort of magical mobile garden, and every woman in a Queen. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho. It's no accident that she wore always the traditional dresses of the Istmo. But these showy trajes, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for who wears it: active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Isthmus of Tehuantepec, thehuana's hair dressing.
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  • Tehuantepec, street market
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  • Tehuantepec, street market
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  • San Blas Atempa (Tehuantepec). Tehuana cooking "totopos", the local tortilla.
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  • Salina Cruz, dressing for a Vela, the traditional celebrations of the Zapotecas women of the Istmo de Tehuantepec. When the tehuanas dance floral skirts and huipiles (shirts) transform the track in a sort of magical mobile garden. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214284.jpg
  • Juchitàn: Vela (traditional celebration of Tehiana Indian Zapotec women) Biadxi, holy mass in Cheguigo chapel. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
    em0214286.jpg
  • Juchitàn, Vela San Vicente Ferrer. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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  • Isthmus of Tehuantepec, San Mateo del Mar. Huaves women walking on the top of sand dunes.
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  • Tehuantepec. Vela, with traditional dances ("sones") with skirts and huipiles. Often the Tehuanas women dances without men.
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  • Tehuantepec. Vela, with traditional dances ("sones") with skirts and huipiles. Often the Tehuanas women dances without men.
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  • Tehuantepec. Vela, with traditional dances ("sones") with skirts and huipiles. Often the Tehuanas women dances without men.
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  • Tehuantepec, two puppets dressed in a traditional Zapotec Indians. They parade along the streetys at the beginning of a Vela, the traditional celebrations of Indian Zapotec Women of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.
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  • Tehuantepec, two puppets dressed in a traditional Zapotec Indians. They parade along the streetys at the beginning of a Vela, the traditional celebrations of Indian Zapotec Women of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.
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  • Juchitàn, Vela San Isidro Labrador. Holy Mass in St Vicente Ferrer church.
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  • Juchitàn, Velas (traditional celebrations)  of Ixtepec. Tehuanas waiting for "regada de Frutas", a procession along village's streets. The tehuanas are the archetype of an ancient and legendary Mexico, told in the murales of Diego Rivera and impersonated also by Frida Kalho that often wore these traditional dresses. But these showy dresses, and the rich golden ornaments that accompany them, are above all an instrument of auto-representatiom for these active women which the control of the local markets confers an independent economic power that is reflected in the self confidence. Even in the development of the festivities, where the women often dance a lot among them while the men remain seated watching.
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